While clients sometimes request famous brows (such as Marilyn Monroe's iconic pointed arch or Katharine Hepburn's straight and flat shape), Anastasia believes it's important to sculpt your brows according to your unique facial proportions. "You have to take your bone structure and features into account when arching your brows," says Anastasia. "You can modify narrow or wide-set eyes by adjusting how much of your middle gap you wax, but I use mathematical proportions when I create the overall brow shape."
Anastasia's Golden Ratio technique is an easy way to highlight the general areas where you should tweeze. The three lines indicate the beginning of your brow, the highest point of your arch, and the end of your brow. Use the guidelines below to further customize your brows based on the proportions of your face.
To balance the length of your face, avoid arches and stick to thick, straight-arched brows.
You have the opposite problem of a long face, so lengthen with thin brows that have higher arches.
To slim the middle region of your face, keep your brows medium-thick with an arched brow. "The trick here is to keep the brow ends long," says Anastasia. "The longer brow creates a triangular symmetry between your brows and chin that gives the illusion of a heart shape."
To widen an oval face, keep your brows shorter to create the appearance of larger cheeks.
This face shape can hold most brow styles except for straight brows.
Soften an angular face with naturally-shaped brows. Avoid dramatic arches or overly flat brows that can enhance a strong jawline.